Should I walk away?

[Cornpop]

I agree with the carbs needing major attention of course. I put some Marvels in spark plug holes and let sit for about a week and new plugs. Haven't done oil yet only because I'm hoping to fire her up...if even for a very short time...first. I also put a wrench on the crank and rotated couple full turns. I've isolated the no power issue to either that dog bone fuse (thanks mollusc for advice) or perhaps something in dash but gonna try a new fuse in starter relay first.

[Pete in PA]

Don't even try to start it on 29 year old oil that has gas contamination.

Get some cheap Shell Rotella and put it in.

[mollusc]

Don't even try to start it on 29 year old oil that has gas contamination.

Get some cheap Shell Rotella and put it in.

Completely agree.  A jug of T4 15W-40 is like $20.

[mollusc]

Put a wrench on the crank and rotate the engine.

The problem with that is that you have to pull one of the crankshaft end covers, which means destroying the gasket.  Then you won't be able to try to run it until you get a replacement.
If you want to try turning it over, pull all the spark plugs, put it in second or third gear and hold the clutch, get it moving, and let the clutch out like you're roll-starting it.

[Cornpop]

Hi guys,
So while I appreciate and agree with the bump start idea, I did not try it because I had to remove both front brake calipers due to the fact they were frozen from years of just sitting etc.
I've been tinkering the past couple weeks...chasing down bad/poor electrical connections w/multi meter. Lotta YouTube vids. While I haven't sunk any money into the bike yet besides new spark plugs, and new 30 amp dog one fuse for solenoid. I did want to make sure it had potential before moving forward.
As a reminder, the bike sat unused for almost 30 years. She only got 4k miles, and was stored inside in garage (Massachusetts) but rust/corrosion is, well everywhere.
Anyways, new fuel and petcock cleaning along with plugs and elec contact cleaning, hooked up ride on lawnmower battery with big jump pac I got her running. So, she indeed does run. Now time to decide if I'll move forward with restoration....battery, tires, air and oil filter, brake and clutch slaves, tires, clean up/restore front brakes, change final drive fluid, etc. I should of course remove/rebuild carbs if I'm gonna do things the right way. Those rubber manifolds are no longer pliable which makes things tricky. I already cracked a carb intake gasket going from engine to carbs.
I appreciate the help from you all and am open to comments, advice, critique always.
Cheers

[Cornpop]

One more thing. The key is tricky when starting. I get nothing when the key is turned in the "start" area...at 2 o'clock say, but when I feather the key back some, towards 12 o'clock position, I get power. The key will slip back to proper start position on its own and power turns off. So I'm gonna of course try and figure that out too

[Bob H]

Now that you have spent more time with the bike, is your goal still mainly something to occupy your time during winter?

Now that you got it to at least start, I would seriously consider selling it as-is to someone who may be strongly interested in low mile engine - tranny - drive shaft.

So, here's where I'm at. Since the owner of the bike is a relative, I was told I could tinker with it and try and get her running and if/when I failed and/or decide to say he'll w/it, then I can return bike or part out. So, I like a challenge and it's winter so not a lot to do with my off time so I have the 85' Nighthawk S w/4,032 miles in my garage. I figured I'd put minimal $ into the bike until I was sure she was a "runner" ..at least not locked up.

Based on the 30 year rust build up, I visualize fork tube and fork seal issues, the ignition switch is manifesting bad contact so you may have that problem at all of the bullet connectors to turn signals etc.

How would you characterize the goal at this point? As it sits the bike is basically a financial total loss in terms of restoring it.

To the right buyer, the mechanical low mile drivetrain has value.

[Cornpop]

I'm still not sure exactly what I'm thinking as far as getting her road worthy or not. Yes, fork seals for sure. Along with rust/pitting on tubes etc. Everything will need to be disassembled and cleaned/reassembled/lubed etc. Steering tube as well I'm sure. Rear shocks, clutch lever, rear brake, clutch kit most likely...on and on.

I'm going to change oil/filter and start her up again soon. I don't have compression testing equipment or anything but I'm thinking I'll have an idea how the engine is when it's running (neutral center stand) keeping an ear for tapping etc.
it's just a fun project at this point. Addressing the connections behind instrument cluster is certainly something I'll address as well.
There's a limited market as far as potential interested parties for a strong 85' nighthawk engine where I live...island off Massachusetts with winter population of about 18k so if I were to go that route I'm thinking I may not get a lot of bites
 

[Bob H]

fork seals for sure. Along with rust/pitting on tubes etc. Everything will need to be disassembled and cleaned/reassembled/lubed etc.

Badly rusted fork tubes will tear up new seals despite clean and lube - but the tubes are likely available aftermarket.

When I did my seals a couple years ago, I focused on 5 isolated rock chips that has slight rust. Got a stack of single edge razor blades, removed any high points and filled the imperfections with JB Weld. A razor blade spreads the JB weld out so that there is virtually no sanding but may take 2 passes.

If the rust is all over, like ant bites - you are likely looking at replacing the tubes.

If the bike is a family heirloom and money is no object, go for it (unlikely as the bike was neglected in storage).

By the time you add up new tires, battery, forks, whatever is going on with ignition switch - possible back fees from DMV if wasn't Non-Op, the bike (financially) would not sell for more than the cost to repair if your labor is worth anything.

[Cornpop]

Agreed all around. By no means a family heirloom. More like a challenge...something worth tinkering with etc. I'm thinking I'll spend some time here/there getting things squared away...inexpensive stuff I can do when I have time. The bikes not taking up too much space in garage so before I junk her I'm gonna rebuild carbs...I hear they're a bear to remove, saw a video on softening up old rubber manifold parts I'll give a try, oil change of course, clean up free up brakes, find out what's going on with ignition, maybe rewire up front...little sodder and some new wires here/there, remove/get rid of rust here/there. Couple more months of crappy weather for now. Around here spring doesn't really happen....January February March March March March July
Cheers

[Pete in PA]

Different bike (92) but not hard to remove them. Done it right around 10 times now due to various reasons.

Carbs themselves are identical.  watch some YouTube on the 91-03 750 Nighthawk. You can do it.

Removing the carbs might have to get a manual to learn the tricks.

You have the benifit of acessible pilot screws. Part of the reason I've removed mine so often.

[Cornpop]

Excellent thanks. I'll check some videos out at YouTube University for sure.
Cheers

[TransAm99]

One more thing. The key is tricky when starting. I get nothing when the key is turned in the "start" area...at 2 o'clock say, but when I feather the key back some, towards 12 o'clock position, I get power. The key will slip back to proper start position on its own and power turns off. So I'm gonna of course try and figure that out too

You can try a shot (and just a shot) of WD40 in the switch and work the key in the switch.  It fixed a similar issue I had with the tail light not staying on.

[mollusc]

One more thing. The key is tricky when starting. I get nothing when the key is turned in the "start" area...at 2 o'clock say, but when I feather the key back some, towards 12 o'clock position, I get power. The key will slip back to proper start position on its own and power turns off. So I'm gonna of course try and figure that out too

You can try a shot (and just a shot) of WD40 in the switch and work the key in the switch.  It fixed a similar issue I had with the tail light not staying on.

On Nighthawks this problem is more frequently the bottom section of the ignition barrel unit, where all the connectors are.  Once you remove the whole thing you can usually separate the connector section from the lock barrel proper in order to clean inside it.  I think some people have even found new pieces that replace the original, allowing you to have a perfectly functioning unit without needing to get new keys.

[Glaswiegan2000]

This was like 20 yrs ago so may not be real accurate, the contacts wear down, so once I got it apart took a dulled down center punch and hammer to restore the shape ( convex? )  of the contacts, used soft wood for backing, lay down a shop rag to keep the little balls and springs from rolling away.