Should I walk away?

[Cornpop]

Gentleman,
Brand new to this forum. Forgive me if I'm jumping protocol/procedure or whatever with this post...be it in the improper category or under the wrong heading etc.
I'm looking at a 1985 700S w/4k miles. The bad news is this bike has been in storage-unheated garage in Massachusetts-for 29 years. Last time she was on the road, the owner took a spill and dropped the bike on the left side. Not a ton of damage-faring/windscreen a little janky but for now that's least of my concerns.
-gas left in tank
-front wheel frozen. I released right side caliper and got her spinning.
-most all chrome has started to rust of course
-mouse nest in/around air box.

I realize I'll be cleaning/restoring just about everything on this bike before she's roadworthy....haven't even thought about turning the engine over yet.
So, I'm looking for your advice/opinions/comments before I load the bike on my pickup.
I'm not a mechanic but am capable turning a wrench and diagnosing etc. And of course a quick study after a few YouTube vids.
How much of a project might this be? Ballpark costs anyone? Tires, brakes, clutch kit, shocks-or rebuild, wiring, directionals...etc etc
Thanks in advance.
Biden's nemesis-Cornpop

[Bob H]

Are you attracted to this 1985 700S w/4k miles because of a low price, or is this exactly the vintage bike you want?

Stuff that needs a lot of work like that will end up costing you much more in time and money than if you bought a modern bike that is a few years old. In my area someone is selling a couple year old MT07 for $6,000 with 3k miles - and that bike would be MUCH more bang for your buck. Unless you were seeking out exactly what you want.

Some people WANT that era of bike, they grew up with them (like me). But if you are just looking for "a motorcycle" I would walk away from that project.
The most expensive and time-consuming vehicle I have ever owned was given to me for free (1950 Chevy truck).

[mollusc]

I'm in the process of getting my own 1984 700S with <30k miles back on the road after just a couple of years of sitting.  It was running just fine prior to me putting it under a cover due to peeling paintwork and the wheel bearings needing replacement.
Last time I looked at it, it was also going to need a brake caliper rebuild.  And of course the carbs will need to be fully stripped and rebuilt.


I'm estimating at least another $1500 in parts alone (including tyres) before it will be roadworthy.  That's without considering when I will find the time to work on it.
I had already replaced the steering head bearings, done a full engine teardown and rebuild, installed new rear shocks, rebuilt the front forks, and made numerous electrical and ignition upgrades.  Probably $2000 worth of parts and supplies.

As Bob indicates above, the cheaper the vehicle, the more it usually costs in the long run.

[Steppin Razor]

I would pass on this bike if it were free.  Being able to work on things is one thing, but 29 years in the wet cold, you'll have to take the whole thing apart, every piece.

[Cornpop]

Bob, Mollusc, Steppin Razor-thanks for the comments. Truly appreciate it. Yeah, leaning towards taking a pass...As much as I like to rehab old stuff, I'm thinking this might just be an awful (and expensive) headache. I do like that 80's square headlight look and all and low miles is nice but the more I google and discuss it with guys like you all the more I'm thinking of just walking away.
Cheers,
C Pop

[Bob H]

I like to rehab old stuff...

There are clean, garage queens out there. Especially if you widen the geographical area.

Happy hunting!

[Pete in PA]

I went through this myself. I had an 83 650 NH from brand new back in the day.
After many bikes since then I wanted to find another one.

For reference last few bikes were a FJ-09, FZ-07, ST1300. The Yamahas both had a great engine, but the bug/transformer look didn't work.

After much research over parts availability and some findings like alternator/starter chain problems and con rod bearings on the 80's bikes I changed to looking for a 91-03 NH.

Found a 92 20k miles in almost perfect shape for $1900 over a year ago. It ran, but not great.

Did a few things to it, carb clean and rejet, tires, fork oil, etc. and still that came to good $$$.

I'm happy now.

[Cornpop]

Yeah I've been tinkering around with the cb700s here/there. Freed up stuck caliper front wheel, put some air in tires and cleaned all the mouse poopoo/nesting materials etc. It's got the look I want in a bike for sure but I'm thinking A) there's others out there that are runners and B) there's other make/models out there that have similar look/style and perhaps newer of course. I gotta admit though it seems every bike I like is at least 20+ years old. Something about the 80's bikes I'm drawn to for sure.

[Steppin Razor]

The bike you're looking for is out there. Not perfect, but not a strip off every nut and bolt bike.  Assuming, that is, that you are looking to wrench and learn moto mechanicking.  Setting yourself up for success is wise.  If you just want an old school bike to ride, cast a bit of a wide net, and you'll find one.  For whatever reason, OH and WI seem like they've got a fair bunch.

[Northern Rider]

I had the same feeling about restoring a 1980 Kawasaki KZ1000. I had a couple of 73's (the first year of Kawasaki's big 4 stroke bikes) and wanted another 4-cylinder old school bike.

So, I bought the 80 KZ1000 for $350.00 and didn't have to redo the engine, but about everything else! My initial $350.00 ended up at $2600.00, and I did 90% of the restore myself!

Like other's have mentioned, pass on the bike and find a bike in better shape to start. You will start with ambition, but frustration will set in, and the bike will set in the corner of your garage, I know HA. Good luck in whatever you decide.

Welcome to the forum!

[Cornpop]

So, here's where I'm at. Since the owner of the bike is a relative, I was told I could tinker with it and try and get her running and if/when I failed and/or decide to say he'll w/it, then I can return bike or part out. So, I like a challenge and it's winter so not a lot to do with my off time so I have the 85' Nighthawk S w/4,032 miles in my garage. I figured I'd put minimal $ into the bike until I was sure she was a "runner" ..at least not locked up. Got be plugs, drained old gas and replaced with new, cleaned up petcock.
Now, on center stand, rear wheel will only turn if in neutral. Front brakes were frozen so I removed for now and will rehab if I decide to go further with rehab.
Should rear wheel move even a little bit in gear? I'm saying it only moves in neutral.
I poured a bit of Marvel's in plug holes let sit three days.
Old battery removed, hooked up 12v jump pac (the big kind like AAA uses) to battery cables and tried to turn over...nothing...zero...no ignition no lights, nothing. So I put positive jump pac clip on starter bolt and neg grounded on starter housing...she turns over a bit. Couple puffs of black out pipe but not actually starting and still no lights. This of course was with new spark plugs properly gapped and installed.
I appreciate all the advice as to better off looking at another bike and I'm still definitely leaning that way but in meantime I'd like to hear this engine run...if cost is low enough of course. One more thing. I tried starter fluid in air box with filter removed when trying to start as well.
Oil level was fine...still old oil that indeed has a fuel smell/mix look...and after last time I tried to turn her over-with starter directly from jump pac, I checked oil level after failed ignition and it was lower...so does that tell me she's trying to cycle and indeed drawing oil through system?
Suggestions or comments appreciated and also snide remarks insults are welcome as any/all info is great
Thanks

[mollusc]

The rear wheel should only rock back and forth enough to take up the slack in the drive train when it's in gear -- just like any bike.
NEVER try to run an engine if the oil smells like gas.  Diluted oil loses most of its lubricating effects.
Check the conductivity of the dogbone fuse inside the starter solenoid.  They can often develop cracks and cause the entire electrical system to go dead.  And if you don't have any electrical, turning the starter won't do anything since you won't have any spark.

[Bob H]

... Since the owner of the bike is a relative, I was told I could tinker with it and try and get her running ...

That changes everything.
Not an arms length transaction.
Hell yes you should get it running. Family honor!! Show 'em!

[Cornpop]

Service manual came in mail yesterday so I've got that. Yeah I'm thinking the starter selinoid needs some attention/testing etc for sure. When I say fuel in oil, I'm saying it smells like fuel and seems thinner than it should. Oil is 29 years old so perhaps there's some inherent breakdown of course I may be assuming is fuel etc. When I get her fired up I'm not gonna run the engine too long...just enough to be sure she starts/runs then I'll do oil change etc. Thanks for the rear wheel non movement while in gear info. I'll keep you all updated and ask questions. Feel free to fire off any comments or experiences with similar motors/situations etc.
thank you

[Pete in PA]

With the history of the bike I'd change the oil first.  Squirt oil in the cylinders and let it sit. Put a wrench on the crank and rotate the engine.
Pull the carbs, clean and jet. Check for spark. Then try to start it.