Dies on full clutch release after MC and slave rebuild

[mollusc]

I don't think the 1983 bikes had kickstand switches, but it couldn't hurt to confirm.

[Pete in PA]

1983 had the rubber on the sidestand to kick it up in a left turn.  No sidestand switch.

I also think it's a bad clutch switch or diode. Going to have to trace the wires and test the diode and switch.

[draser]

Unless I'm missing something I don't think it is the carburetors.

Have you confirmed that the slow jets are open and the carb passage where they go are clean? I use a syringe with acetone injected in the carb passage and see if it comes out the fuel mixture port. Carb cleaner works also.
The fuel requirements when in gear are higher than at idle on the stand.
Also, do all the fuel mixture screws work - when fully in that cylinder dies?

[dickdagger]

It sounds like you're barking up the wrong tree. None of the safety switches (besides killswitch) on this bike interact with the ignition system, only the starter solenoid. Put the bike on the center stand, start it and try shifting through the gears/operating the clutch. I'm guessing it probably won't die.

Now here's my opinion - your problem seems to stem from your fuel system. You said you need 50% choke now and it's misfiring/igniting unburnt exhaust gas. It starts, runs, then dies when you put a load on it. You have to thoroughly clean these carbs. Take them off the bike. Take out all the jets, needles, slides, emulsifiers, connector rails, everything. Inspect the slide diaphragm for tears or holes. Manually push a single strand of braided copper wire through the idle jets to ENSURE no blockages. Clean the float needle and its seat until they shine. Check the float height. Blast out the carb body passages only when you have COMPLETELY disassembled them. I can't emphasize enough how important it is for every part of the fuel system to be free of corrosion and debris, so it can properly atomize the right amount of fuel to run the engine at whatever load you're demanding of it.

I don't know your bike's story, but it sounds neglected. Chances are that there's rust in the tank, even if you can't see it through the fill hole. This will always come back to bite you in the ass unless you seal the tank. Unpressurized inline filters will not fix the problem, only mitigate it slightly.

After that, if your bike still doesn't run right, then you can start checking things like valve clearances, timing chain lash, compression, etc.

Oh, and make sure you've got oil. I'm not being condescending here, just trying to drive home the point that you have to start with a few known goods before you go down a rabbit hole.