What Did You Do With Your Nighthawk Today?

[Bob H]

... what are the 2 handles (left and right side) that sit just below the seat used for?

They are to strap down to. If you look under the right one, you see 2 protrusions that would help to locate a tie strap, keep it from sliding out of place.

The left side has a similar protrusion and a helmet lock on that same tube.

Above that is the plastic that runs below the seat, which you would not want to tie down to, thus the metal tubes.
I don't think they are intended as grab bars, they are tucked out of the way, not really grabbable.

[Bob H]

Dunlop Mutant installed to give me more confidence off pavement



Greetings from the land of Fruits and Nuts, Pacific ocean in distance.
These are a 90/10 tire (90 street, 10 dirt). Ride like a street tire.

[Pete in PA]

Good looking tire.  Like your bike too. I want that blue!  Very rare, have never seen one IRL. Waiting for one to pop up.

[Northern Rider]

Bob H.

Thanks for the info on the tie down bars (not grab handles). What is the name of the windshield are you running? Thanks!

[Bob H]

What is the name of the windshield are you running?

Street Shield EX by National Cycle. I found this one used on Ebay long ago but they still sell them and work great on all of these older bikes.
A deflector lip of some sort makes a huge difference in reducing buffeting, you can get $30 knock offs of the more expensive MRA. I am running a Laminar Lip. This is the 14" universal one, which they recommended when I called for that specific street shield EX.
https://www.laminarlip.com/cruisers.php


I am only 5' 8" and the blast of air rises up above my visor, around the top of helmet with very little buffeting.

[clearviewx]

I'm still running the Honda OEM Nighthawk windshield. 

[Northern Rider]

Bob H.

Thanks for the info on your windshield.I will look into it.

Have never seen a Honda OEM windshield yet.

[clearviewx]

I don't think I've ever saw another one on a Nighthawk.  Send me your email through PM & I'll send you couple of pictures.

[Bob H]

It's never too late to remove warning labels.

One of my Garmin battery replacement kits came with a spudger that was perfect for the job. Worked better than a credit card, the spudger had a thin edge that helped initiate the separation after hair dryer heated it up.





Bit of polish and wax - disappeared

[Pete in PA]

It "can" be too late if you've got some paint fade. You'll have a square of virgin paint.

[Bob H]

It "can" be too late if you've got some paint fade.

Right, that's why I didn't do it for the last decade.
I had a meet up with 18 other riders this weekend, and after the clutch, tires, battery, valve cover gasket, etc. I was cleaning my bike.

I decided to bite the bullet - unsure if 30 year old decals would even come off, or if the lettering would be burned into the faded surroundings.

In my case, the gamble paid off and looks great. Mind you the bike is stored away from the sun, but my soft bags are bleached out from the riding I do and they are only 5 years old.

[Bob H]

The video on Pete's 750 mentioned that the forks were raised in the triple clamps - and a light went off in my head.
The 29 degree rake on these bikes is rather sluggish to initiate turns, and this would help. Most modern bikes are about 25 degree rake (unless it is a cruiser).

Yesterday I raised my forks in the triple clamps about 1/2 inch and could feel that it was slightly more nimble. Raising the fork tubes results in lowering the motorcycle.

My YSS rear shocks have height adjustment, they had been set at the stock 13" length. Today I raised them about 1/4" to get my nose angled down a bit more. It lifted the back end slightly. Visually you can't tell looking at the bike, it is nothing drastic.


I recently got this $16 set of inflatable wedge things. The set of Three sizes have rated load ranges from 150 pounds to 500 pounds which is plenty to tweak the height of a wheel (just changed tires) or here to support while shock is unbolted. It was super easy to line things up for lower shock bolt. Usually it is a struggle with shims and boards.

[Larry Fine]

I have found that adjusting the rear suspension height to be very effective at altering steering response and counter-steering effort.

[Northern Rider]

Due to the fact that I am height challenged (5'6")I plan on raising the fork tubes through my triple trees as well. It has worked well in the past. I would like to be flat footed on my bike if at all possible. This will help some, as I hope not to have to have my stock seat altered to lower it. We shall see!

[Bob H]

Due to the fact that I am height challenged (5'6")I plan on raising the fork tubes through my triple trees as well.

The main reason I did it was for less sluggish turn response - but when I am on a tall motorcycle I wear Chippewa Logger boots with about 2" heel. Got a mint pair on Ebay in my size, they were a bit loose, put height increasing insoles from Amazon. Gives you a lot more confidence.

I did add another 1/4 inch drop of forks to = the 3/4" that Pete did.


And to raise the back a bit more I added 3mm of Preload (3 turns on the YSS shocks). My static sag was a bit more than needed, and I still have some static sag after that adjustment


Went for a ride, and the bike feels more "neutral". Before it always felt very sluggish switching back from more modern bikes with 25 degree rake, rather than the Nighthawk 29 degrees. Now it takes less effort to initiate a turn (countersteer) and the subsequent turn in of the bars to continue the turn is more natural.