Clutch replacement 750 Late Model NH

[Bob H]

If your 1991-2003 NH 750 has the original clutch, you will need a special tool to remove the nut that holds the clutch to a main central shaft.
Search Honda part No. 07716-0020203 and you will see an odd shaped socket described as "30mm - 26mm" and you will use the larger size which is 30mm. These are available on Ebay fairly cheap, no need to make one.



You don't need the "clutch holder" tool if you use an impact, like this $44 harbor freight electric one.
On the center stand, put the bike in 5th gear and with gentle pressure on the rear brake the nut will come off very easily.
When putting it back on, the replacement nut will be a standard hex (27mm so if your sockets don't go that big, pick them up while at Harbor freight).

Torque setting is 80 Ft/Lb but everything was coated in oil so I just went up to 75 lb on the torque wrench and punched the indent into the shaft (per manual)


Just follow the Clymer manual, or the newer OEM manual for 200-2003 (black cover). The earlier Honda manuals from the 1990's are not as good.

My old parts "looked good" yet there were 3 recent events where I know my RPM increased when gunned throttle, but speed did not increase. so I guess I caught it early. 38,600 miles on the original clutch.

I reused the steel discs, purchased OEM Honda friction discs, gasket, and nut from Partzilla, along with a tube of Hondabond which is a great gasket sealer (very thin coat on both sides of gasket and hope you never have to take it apart again).


Here's the new discs with temporary bolts to hold in place so it can be placed as a single unit (as described in the manual).


The most time consuming part was cleaning the gasket surfaces. I got the big pieces off with plastic scraper, then meticulously cleaned the remainder with razor blade lubricated with WD-40. If you find the proper angle, and use almost no force, the junk comes off with no damage to the aluminum. I started using acetone, but the WD-40 is also a penetrant and had enough lubricating properties that it progressed smoothly, but tedious.

Just follow the manual, and search youtube for the 10 part series on doing this clutch. The videos are a great "orientation" but I followed the manual for the steps.

[Larry Fine]

Did you remember to soak the new fiber plates in fresh engine oil?

[Bob H]

Did you remember to soak the new fiber plates in fresh engine oil?

Yes, thanks. Wife put a container in recycle bin that was just bigger than the clutch disk diameter.

I did an oil-change along with this process, and that "soaking" oil was completely clean looking when I pulled the discs out after a few hours, so I put that in the engine with new oil.

I figure the first 100 miles may break in the discs and create a more debris than whatever dust came off the brand new discs.

Clutch works perfect. No issues.

[Pete in PA]

Odd that Honda made that nut special in the first place. Even more odd that they changed it back to normal.

Link to the exact tool on Ebay?  There are many.

Glad you got it done. Now enjoy the full power available.🙂👍

[Bob H]

Link to the exact tool on Ebay?  There are many.

Right, lot of listings and some are rather vague as to what they fit.
At this point I have confidence that 30mm is the end that fits and would have narrowed my search down to a lower cost tool (to just get one nut off, once).

I can mail you the one I used, as I have no use for it now that a hex nut has replaced the special nut. You may never need it, with your low miles.

The one I purchased was https://www.ebay.com/itm/125558710034 search = Honda 30mm - 26mm Socket part No. 07716-0020203
That part # is the Honda OEM part # which can be searched, and these are also available on Amazon with that search.

Likely I paid too much, especially as I had it shipped from England - but that company had a holding tool that seemed to be the most affordable and best design. So I bought both tools from them.

Initially I wanted a proper holding tool because I discovered 3 instances of people breaking their clutch hubs by using home-made half-ass holders then wrenching that nut off and breaking the aluminum hub arms.

But when I tried to use the holding tool it would not fit into the clutch center area. Turns out they sent me the tool for a Honda Hornet 600 by mistake. I think the tool they should have sent me would have worked well.





With everything tore apart, discover the holding tool didn't fit but the socket tool was OK - I decided to just apply the brake in 5th gear and use the impact wrench.

The nut came off right away "Brap". It was not a Brrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr-ap.
Honestly I think it would have come off even without applying the brake but you definitely need the rear wheel off the ground so the bike can't lurch forward and fall off the side stand (I have a center stand and a rear paddock stand).

In that 10 part youtube series on replacing this clutch, the guy uses this OEM Honda tool which is crazy expensive, and designed for many Hondas including those that need 5 bolts rather than 4, and stands so far outside of the clutch basket that it needs very long bolts that apparently don't come with the tool as the dude had to scrounge for bolts that would fit in the video.
Now that I see how all this works, EBC has a reasonably priced clutch hub holder for this bike readily available on Amazon that would also work. But I would put the money in a cheap impact wrench instead.

[Pete in PA]

you went for the expensive one.  The one Im looking at is from China and $12 delivered.  He says it fits 91-03.

Can you measure the inside diameter between the tits, see if it's 24mm?

[Bob H]

Can you measure the inside diameter between the tits, see if it's 24mm?

It is 30mm which is consistent with the OEM part # that states 26-30 and we use the larger end of the socket which is 30 mm

When I was looking for this special tool I saw lot of listings and some are rather vague as to what they fit.

[Pete in PA]

That shoots down the one I'm looking at. Despite his claims it fits.