Bike with No power

[Drewcifer]

Will the oil pressure switch prevent the dash console from lighting up?

[Larry Fine]

If I attach the light probe to battery positive, and I chase all the wires to the fusebox, they all seem to light up.

You should be checking for voltage between the fuses and ground. With the key on, battery + and the fuses should be at the same voltage, nothing between them.

Working from the battery and moving up the harness, I've probed every wire, at the metal end, or if necessary, through the wire jacket for connection to ground.

I am missing something obvious. All the wires light up.

Again, there should be no voltage difference between battery + and any wire that should be hot. A good fuse or a closed switch should behave like a solid wire.

I've already swapped the CDI, but it wasn't a verified salvage bike according to the vendor, so it wasn't tested before I bought it.

However, I wonder if there's a place I'm not looking.

Replacing parts is a terrible and expensive troubleshooting method.

Soon to arrive are
1. A neutral switch from a manga, which is cross compatible.
2. A new aftermarket reg/rectifier
3. The clutch dioded.

I've already swapped the clutch lever switch and the CDI

All of these parts are easily testable with your tester and some advice.

Phone number on the way.

[Drewcifer]

SOLVED:

Turns out every single outer surface on the solenoid has to be cleaned and brushed to expose fresh metal. The posts, the nuts, the washers. The outer surfaces the terminal posts go into.

After doing that, I realized mine was super corroded outside.

Larry Fine got me moving after a helpful phone call.

Clean off EVERY sufrace that conducts with solvent and abrasion until it's SHINY.

Should sort you out after that.